Growing Peppers: From Sweet Bell to Ghost Pepper, A Complete Variety Guide

Sweet Peppers: 0 Scoville Heat Units

Sweet peppers produce no capsaicin and are the most widely grown pepper category in home gardens. They require 65 to 85 days from transplant to reach full color and sweetness. Green bell peppers are simply immature sweet peppers. Allowing them to ripen to red, yellow, or orange increases their vitamin C content by 150 percent and their sugar content by 30 to 50 percent.

Bell Peppers

California Wonder: The standard green-to-red bell pepper. Blocky, 4-lobed fruits averaging 4 inches long and 3.5 inches wide. 75 days from transplant to green stage, 85 days to full red. Produces 8 to 12 fruits per plant. Resistant to tobacco mosaic virus (TMV). King of the North: Developed for cool climates. Produces 3 to 4-inch blocky fruits that ripen from green to red in 68 days. The most reliable bell pepper for zones 3 and 4, where standard varieties often fail to mature. Aristotle: Hybrid, 4-inch fruits, 72 days to green, 82 days to red. Resistant to bacterial leaf spot (races 1-3). The highest-yielding bell pepper in University of Georgia trials, producing 12 to 15 fruits per plant.

Sweet Specialty Peppers

Lipstick: Pimiento-type, 4-inch tapered fruits, deep red when ripe. 65 days from transplant. Thick, juicy walls ideal for roasting and canning. Produces 10 to 15 fruits per plant. Corno di Toro (Bull's Horn): Italian heirloom, 6 to 8-inch elongated fruits, green to red. 70 to 80 days. Thin walls, sweet flavor, excellent for frying. Produces 15 to 20 fruits per plant. Marconi Red: 8 to 10-inch long, 2.5-inch wide fruits, green to red. 75 days. The longest sweet pepper commonly available. Thin walls, ideal for grilling whole. Produces 12 to 18 fruits per plant.

Mild Peppers: 1,000 to 5,000 SHU

Mild peppers add flavor without overwhelming heat. They are the workhorses of the kitchen, used in salsas, poppers, pickling, and roasting. Most gardeners grow at least one mild variety alongside their sweet peppers.

Jalapeno Varieties

Early Jalapeno: 2.5 to 3.5-inch cylindrical fruits, dark green maturing to red. 60 to 65 days from transplant. 2,500 to 5,000 SHU. Produces 25 to 35 fruits per plant. The earliest maturing jalapeno, suited for short-season climates. Jalafuego: 3.5-inch fruits, 65 to 70 days. 4,000 to 6,000 SHU. Resistant to bacterial leaf spot and potato virus Y. Produces 30 to 40 fruits per plant. Higher yield and hotter than standard jalapeno. Mucho Nacho: Jumbo jalapeno, 4-inch fruits, 70 days. 2,500 to 4,000 SHU. Produces 20 to 25 fruits per plant. Larger size makes it ideal for stuffing as poppers.

Poblano and Anaheim

San Luis Poblano: 4 to 6-inch heart-shaped fruits, dark green to mahogany. 65 to 75 days. 1,000 to 1,500 SHU. The standard poblano for chile rellenos. Dried poblanos are called ancho chiles. Produces 8 to 12 fruits per plant. Anaheim (NuMex Joe E. Parker): 6 to 8-inch elongated fruits, green to red. 70 to 80 days. 500 to 1,000 SHU. Mild, slightly sweet. The classic roasting pepper of the Southwest. Produces 15 to 20 fruits per plant. Shishito: Japanese heirloom, 2 to 3-inch wrinkled fruits, green. 55 to 60 days. 100 to 1,000 SHU. Approximately 1 in 10 fruits is spicy. Blistered in a hot skillet with oil and salt, they are the most popular appetizer pepper in Japanese restaurants. Produces 40 to 60 fruits per plant.

Medium-Hot Peppers: 5,000 to 50,000 SHU

This range covers the peppers that demand respect in the kitchen but remain manageable for most cooks. They are the backbone of hot sauce production and ethnic cuisines worldwide.

Serrano and Cayenne

Serrano Tampiqueno: 2-inch cylindrical fruits, dark green to red. 70 to 80 days. 10,000 to 23,000 SHU. Three times hotter than a jalapeno. The preferred pepper for fresh pico de gallo and Thai curries. Produces 30 to 50 fruits per plant. Cayenne Long Slim: 5 to 6-inch thin-walled fruits, dark green to red. 70 to 75 days. 30,000 to 50,000 SHU. The standard cayenne for drying and crushing into red pepper flakes. Produces 40 to 60 fruits per plant. Hot Portugal: 5 to 6-inch fruits, 70 to 80 days. 5,000 to 15,000 SHU. A Portuguese heirloom with a rich, smoky flavor. Produces 20 to 30 fruits per plant.

Hungarian Wax

Yellow Hungarian Wax: 6 to 8-inch tapered fruits, pale yellow to orange to red. 65 to 70 days. 5,000 to 10,000 SHU. Often confused with banana peppers, but significantly hotter. Excellent for pickling. Produces 15 to 25 fruits per plant. The most prolific pepper in my own garden trials, consistently producing 25 to 30 fruits per plant even in partial shade conditions with 6 hours of direct sunlight.

Hot Peppers: 100,000 to 350,000 SHU

Hot peppers belong primarily to the species Capsicum chinense, which produces capsaicin at concentrations 10 to 100 times higher than C. annuum. They require more heat, more time, and more careful handling than milder varieties.

Habanero Varieties

Orange Habanero: 1 to 1.5-inch lantern-shaped fruits, green to bright orange. 90 to 100 days from transplant. 100,000 to 350,000 SHU. The benchmark habanero. Intense fruity, citrusy aroma beneath the heat. Produces 30 to 50 fruits per plant. Red Savina Habanero: 1.5-inch fruits, green to deep red. 95 to 110 days. 350,000 to 577,000 SHU. Former Guinness World Record holder for hottest pepper (1994 to 2006). Produces 20 to 35 fruits per plant. Chocolate Habanero: 1.5-inch fruits, green to dark brown. 90 to 100 days. 300,000 to 425,000 SHU. Smoky, rich flavor with less fruity acidity than the orange habanero. Produces 25 to 40 fruits per plant.

Scotch Bonnet

Red Scotch Bonnet: 1 to 1.5-inch bonnet-shaped fruits, green to red. 90 to 100 days. 100,000 to 350,000 SHU. The Caribbean cousin of the habanero, with a slightly sweeter, more complex flavor. Essential for Jamaican jerk seasoning. Produces 25 to 40 fruits per plant. Scotch bonnets require night temperatures above 60 degrees Fahrenheit for fruit set. In zones 6 and colder, start seeds indoors 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date to ensure adequate growing time.

Superhot Peppers: 800,000 to 2,200,000+ SHU

Superhot peppers are not for casual consumption. Handling them requires nitrile gloves, and processing them demands adequate ventilation. They are grown by enthusiasts for hot sauce, pepper flakes, and competitive eating. A single plant produces enough capsaicin to season a year's worth of meals for an entire family.

Ghost Pepper (Bhut Jolokia)

Bhut Jolokia (Ghost Pepper): 2.5 to 3.5-inch wrinkled fruits, green to orange to red. 100 to 120 days from transplant. 855,000 to 1,041,427 SHU. Certified by Guinness World Records in 2007 as the first pepper to exceed 1 million SHU. Native to Assam, India. Produces 30 to 80 fruits per plant under optimal conditions. Plants reach 3 to 4 feet tall and require staking. Start seeds indoors 12 weeks before the last frost date. Soil temperature must reach 80 degrees Fahrenheit before transplanting; use black plastic mulch and row covers to accelerate soil warming. Fertilize with a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus formula (5-10-10) at 1 tablespoon per plant at transplanting and again at 30-day intervals. Excess nitrogen produces lush foliage but reduces capsaicin concentration in the fruit.

Carolina Reaper

Carolina Reaper: 1.5 to 2-inch fruits with a distinctive scorpion tail, green to red. 90 to 110 days. 1,400,000 to 2,200,000 SHU. Current Guinness World Record holder (since 2013). Bred by Ed Currie of PuckerButt Pepper Company in Fort Mill, South Carolina. Produces 20 to 50 fruits per plant. The heat builds slowly over 30 seconds after eating, peaks at 2 to 3 minutes, and persists for 15 to 20 minutes. Handle only with nitrile gloves. Do not touch your face or eyes after handling. Wash all cutting boards and knives with bleach solution (1 tablespoon per gallon of water) after processing.

Safety Equipment for Superhot Processing

When harvesting or processing superhot peppers, wear nitrile gloves (not latex, which capsaicin penetrates within 60 seconds), safety goggles, and a surgical mask or respirator. Capsaicin aerosolizes when peppers are cut or crushed, and inhalation causes coughing fits and throat irritation. Process superhots outdoors or under a range hood with the exhaust fan on high. Wash hands with dish soap and cold water after handling. Cold water dissolves capsaicin oil; hot water spreads it. Milk or yogurt neutralizes capsaicin on skin and in the mouth far more effectively than water.

Starting Pepper Seeds Indoors

Pepper seeds are slower to germinate and more sensitive to cold than tomato seeds. Proper seed starting technique determines whether your plants reach transplant size by the time soil temperatures are warm enough.

Timing by Hardiness Zone

Start sweet pepper seeds 8 to 10 weeks before the last frost date. Start hot and superhot pepper seeds 10 to 12 weeks before the last frost date. In zone 6 (last frost May 10 to 15), start sweet peppers February 25 to March 10 and hot peppers February 10 to 25. In zone 5 (last frost May 20 to 30), start sweet peppers February 15 to 28 and hot peppers February 1 to 15. In zone 7 (last frost March 25 to April 5), start sweet peppers January 15 to 28 and hot peppers January 1 to 15. Superhot peppers (ghost, Carolina Reaper) benefit from 12 to 14 weeks indoors. Their seeds have harder seed coats and slower germination rates than sweet varieties.

Germination Conditions

Sow seeds 1/4 inch deep in a sterile seed-starting mix. Maintain soil temperature at 80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit using a heat mat. At this temperature, sweet pepper seeds germinate in 7 to 10 days and hot pepper seeds germinate in 10 to 21 days. At 70 degrees Fahrenheit, germination extends to 14 to 21 days for sweet types and 21 to 35 days for hot types. Some superhot varieties (Carolina Reaper, 7 Pot) have germination rates as low as 50 to 60 percent even under ideal conditions. Sow 2 to 3 seeds per cell and thin to the strongest seedling after true leaves appear.

Light and Early Growth

Position a T5 fluorescent fixture 2 to 3 inches above the seed tray. Provide 14 to 16 hours of light per day. Pepper seedlings grow more slowly than tomato seedlings. At 4 weeks after sowing, pepper seedlings are typically 2 to 3 inches tall with 2 to 3 sets of true leaves, whereas tomato seedlings at the same age are 4 to 6 inches tall. Fertilize with 1/4 teaspoon of 20-20-20 water-soluble fertilizer per gallon of water, applied once per week starting when the first true leaves appear. Pot up to 4-inch containers when seedlings are 3 inches tall (typically 5 to 6 weeks after sowing).

Transplanting Peppers into the Garden

Pepper plants are far more sensitive to cold soil than tomatoes. Transplanting peppers into soil below 60 degrees Fahrenheit stunts root development for 2 to 3 weeks and can permanently reduce yield by 20 to 30 percent.

Soil Temperature Requirements

Measure soil temperature at 4-inch depth with a soil thermometer. Sweet peppers require a minimum of 60 degrees Fahrenheit, with optimal growth at 70 to 80 degrees. Hot peppers require a minimum of 65 degrees Fahrenheit, with optimal growth at 75 to 85 degrees. Superhot peppers require a minimum of 70 degrees Fahrenheit. In cool climates, warm the soil with black plastic mulch (applied 2 weeks before transplanting) or clear plastic mulch (applied 4 to 6 weeks before transplanting and removed at transplanting). Black plastic mulch raises soil temperature by 5 to 8 degrees Fahrenheit compared to bare soil. Clear plastic raises it by 10 to 15 degrees but must be removed before planting to prevent overheating the roots.

Planting Technique

Unlike tomatoes, pepper stems do not produce adventitious roots when buried. Plant peppers at the same depth they grew in their containers. Deeper planting causes stem rot. Space sweet peppers 14 to 18 inches apart in rows 30 to 36 inches apart. Space hot peppers 18 to 24 inches apart in rows 36 inches apart. Space superhot peppers 24 to 36 inches apart in rows 36 to 48 inches apart. Wider spacing for superhots improves air circulation around the dense canopy and makes harvesting easier when wearing gloves.

Amendments at Planting

Add 1 tablespoon of bone meal (4-12-0) and 1 tablespoon of dolomitic lime to each planting hole. The bone meal supplies phosphorus for root development and flowering. The lime supplies calcium to prevent blossom end rot, which affects peppers just as it does tomatoes. Mix the amendments into the soil at the bottom of the hole before placing the transplant. Water with 1 quart of diluted liquid fertilizer (1/2 teaspoon 20-20-20 per gallon) to settle soil around the roots.

Fertilizer Schedule for Maximum Production

Peppers are moderate feeders. They require less nitrogen than tomatoes but more phosphorus and calcium. Over-fertilizing with nitrogen produces large, leafy plants with few flowers and thin-walled fruit.

Pre-Plant Soil Preparation

Based on a soil test (conducted in fall or early spring), apply the following pre-plant amendments per 100 square feet: if phosphorus is below 30 parts per million, broadcast 2 to 3 pounds of 5-10-10 fertilizer. If calcium is below 800 ppm, apply 5 pounds of dolomitic lime (raises pH and adds calcium) or 3 pounds of gypsum (adds calcium without raising pH, for soils already at pH 6.5 or above). Work amendments into the top 6 inches of soil 2 weeks before transplanting. Peppers prefer a soil pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Below pH 5.5, calcium and phosphorus become unavailable to the roots.

Sidedressing Schedule

Apply the first sidedressing 2 weeks after transplanting: 1 tablespoon of 5-10-10 per plant, sprinkled in a circle 4 inches from the stem and watered in. Apply the second sidedressing at first flower: 1 tablespoon of 5-10-10 per plant. Apply the third sidedressing at first fruit set: 1 tablespoon of 5-10-10 per plant. For superhot varieties, substitute 3-12-12 (lower nitrogen, higher phosphorus) to direct energy into fruit production rather than foliage. Stop all nitrogen fertilizer 4 weeks before the expected first frost date. Late-season nitrogen delays fruit maturation and reduces capsaicin concentration.

Calcium Supplementation

Blossom end rot in peppers appears as a dark, sunken lesion on the blossom end of the fruit. It is most common on the first fruits of the season and on bell peppers, which have thicker flesh and higher calcium demand than thin-walled hot peppers. Prevention requires consistent watering (1 to 1.5 inches per week) and adequate soil calcium. If blossom end rot appears despite proper watering, spray the foliage with calcium chloride solution (4 tablespoons of calcium chloride per gallon of water) at 7-day intervals. Apply the spray in early morning when stomata are open. Calcium absorbed through the leaves reaches the developing fruit within 24 to 48 hours.

Watering and Mulching for Consistent Production

Pepper plants have shallower root systems than tomatoes. The majority of feeder roots occupy the top 6 to 8 inches of soil. This shallow root zone makes peppers more susceptible to drought stress and more responsive to mulching.

Irrigation Requirements

Provide 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week (0.6 to 0.9 gallons per square foot) through rainfall or irrigation. During fruit set and development (mid-July through August in zones 5 and 6), increase to 1.5 to 2 inches per week. Drip irrigation is ideal because it delivers water directly to the root zone without wetting the foliage. Wet pepper foliage promotes bacterial leaf spot (Xanthomonas campestris pv. vesicatoria), which causes small, water-soaked lesions on leaves and fruit that turn brown and drop out, creating a shot-hole appearance. If using overhead irrigation, water in the early morning so foliage dries before nightfall.

Mulch Materials

Apply 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, or grass clippings) after the soil has warmed to 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Mulching before the soil is fully warm delays root growth. Black plastic mulch is superior to organic mulch for peppers because it warms the soil by 5 to 8 degrees Fahrenheit, suppresses weeds completely, and reflects light upward into the plant canopy, increasing photosynthesis in the lower leaves. In a 3-year trial at the University of Kentucky, peppers grown on black plastic mulch produced 25 to 35 percent more fruit than peppers grown on bare soil with straw mulch. Install drip irrigation under the plastic before laying it down.

Harvesting Peppers at Peak Flavor

Peppers can be harvested at any stage of maturity. Green peppers are immature and have a sharper, more vegetal flavor. Fully colored peppers are sweeter (for sweet types) or hotter (for hot types) and contain more vitamins.

When to Pick

Sweet bell peppers are typically harvested at the green stage for maximum crispness and shelf life. Allowing them to ripen to red, yellow, or orange increases sugar content by 30 to 50 percent and vitamin C by 150 percent, but the fruits become softer and have a shorter shelf life (3 to 5 days refrigerated versus 7 to 10 days for green peppers). Hot peppers develop their maximum capsaicin concentration when fully ripe. A jalapeno at the red stage is 20 to 30 percent hotter than the same fruit at the green stage. For drying, wait until peppers are fully colored and the skin has begun to wrinkle slightly, indicating reduced moisture content.

Harvest Method

Cut peppers from the plant with a clean knife or pruners, leaving 0.5 inches of stem attached. Pulling peppers by hand often breaks the branch or uproots the entire plant, because pepper branches are brittle compared to tomato vines. Wear nitrile gloves when harvesting hot and superhot peppers. Capsaicin transfers from the fruit to your fingers and persists through multiple hand washings. I once made the mistake of harvesting ghost peppers bare-handed and experienced burning sensations on my fingers for 6 hours despite three washes with dish soap.

Yield Expectations

Under average conditions with the care described above, expect the following yields per plant: sweet bell peppers, 8 to 15 fruits (2 to 4 pounds); jalapenos, 25 to 40 fruits (1.5 to 3 pounds); serranos, 30 to 50 fruits (0.75 to 1.5 pounds); habaneros, 30 to 50 fruits (0.5 to 1 pound); ghost peppers, 30 to 80 fruits (0.25 to 0.75 pounds). A row of 10 jalapeno plants spaced 18 inches apart in a 15-foot row produces 250 to 400 fruits, enough for 15 to 25 pints of canned salsa or 8 to 12 quarts of pickled jalapenos.

Managing the 4 Most Common Pepper Problems

Peppers are generally less troubled by pests and diseases than tomatoes, but four problems appear frequently enough to warrant specific attention.

Aphids

Aphids (Myzus persicae) cluster on new growth and the undersides of leaves in spring. They excrete honeydew, which supports sooty mold growth on leaves. A strong spray from a hose dislodges most aphids. For heavy infestations, insecticidal soap (2 percent solution) applied to leaf undersides kills aphids on contact. Lady beetles (Hippodamia convergens) consume 50 to 60 aphids per day. Release 1,500 lady beetles per 1,000 square feet of garden in early May to establish biological control.

Pepper Weevil

Pepper weevils (Anthonomus eugenii) are 1/8-inch black beetles whose larvae feed inside pepper buds and pods, causing bud drop and fruit abortion. The adult female lays eggs inside flower buds, and the larva develops inside, emerging as an adult through a small exit hole. Infested fruit is inedible and should be destroyed. Control with spinosad (Entrust for organic gardens) applied at the first sign of bud drop, repeated at 7-day intervals for 3 applications. Remove and destroy all pepper plant debris at the end of the season to eliminate overwintering sites.

Sunscald

Sunscald appears as a pale, papery, blistered area on the side of the fruit exposed to direct afternoon sun. It is not a disease but a physical injury caused by intense sunlight on fruit that was previously shaded by foliage. Prevention: maintain adequate foliage cover by avoiding excessive nitrogen (which produces large, floppy leaves that shade fruit but are prone to disease) and by not removing lower leaves. In hot climates (zones 8 and 9), 30 percent shade cloth draped over the plants during July and August reduces sunscald by 80 to 90 percent while reducing air temperature by 5 to 8 degrees Fahrenheit.

Anthracnose

Anthracnose (Colletotrichum spp.) causes circular, sunken, dark lesions on ripe fruit. The fungus overwinters on infected plant debris and spreads by splashing rain. It is most severe in warm, wet weather (80 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit with frequent rain). Control: remove and destroy infected fruit immediately. Apply chlorothalonil or mancozeb every 7 to 10 days when conditions favor disease development. Copper-based fungicides (copper hydroxide) provide organic-approved control. Rotate peppers to a different section of the garden for 2 to 3 years after an anthracnose outbreak.

Overwintering Pepper Plants Indoors

Pepper plants are perennial in their native tropical habitats. In zones 7 and warmer, some gardeners successfully overwinter peppers outdoors with heavy mulch and row covers. In colder zones, you can dig up pepper plants in fall and grow them indoors for a head start the following spring.

Indoor Overwintering Method

Before the first frost, dig up the pepper plant with as much root mass as possible. Prune the plant back to 4 to 6 inches of stem, removing all leaves and fruit. Pot it in a 6 to 8-inch container with fresh potting mix. Place it in a cool, bright location (55 to 65 degrees Fahrenheit, south-facing window or under grow lights). Water sparingly, just enough to keep the soil barely moist. The plant will enter dormancy and drop any remaining leaves. In March, move it to a warmer location (65 to 70 degrees), increase watering, and begin fertilizing with half-strength liquid fertilizer every 2 weeks. New growth appears within 2 to 3 weeks. Transplant back into the garden after soil temperatures reach 65 degrees Fahrenheit. An overwintered pepper plant produces fruit 2 to 3 weeks earlier than a new transplant because it already has an established root system.