How to Make Custom Picture Frames with Basic Tools

How Frame Dimensions Actually Work

Frame sizing confuses more beginners than any other aspect of the project. The dimensions listed for a frame (such as 16x20) refer to the size of the artwork or photograph that fits inside the frame, not the outside dimensions of the frame itself. A 16x20 frame has an opening that measures 16x20 inches, and the outside dimensions depend on the width of the frame molding.

The Rabbet

Every picture frame has a rabbet, which is a stepped recess cut into the back inside edge of the frame. The glass, mat, artwork, and backing board all sit inside this recess. The rabbet depth is typically 3/8 to 1/2 inch, and the rabbet width (the ledge that the glass rests on) is typically 1/4 inch. The rabbet dimensions determine how thick a package of glass, mat, artwork, and backing the frame can hold. A standard frame holds 1/8-inch glass plus 1/16-inch mat plus the artwork plus 1/8-inch foam core backing, totaling approximately 3/8 inch, which fits comfortably in a 1/2-inch rabbet.

Calculating Miter Lengths

The length of each frame side equals the artwork dimension plus twice the rabbet width. For a 16x20 artwork with a 1/4-inch rabbet: the two short sides measure 16 + 0.25 + 0.25 = 16.5 inches (measured along the long edge of the miter cut). The two long sides measure 20 + 0.25 + 0.25 = 20.5 inches. Write these measurements as "short point to short point" on your cut list. The short point is the inside corner of the miter cut, which corresponds to the rabbet edge.

Selecting Frame Molding: What to Buy and Where

Frame molding is the shaped wood strip that forms the visible frame. It comes in hundreds of profiles, from simple flat faces to ornate baroque patterns. For a first project, choose a simple flat or slightly rounded profile with a width of 1 to 2 inches. Complex profiles with carved details are harder to join cleanly because the miter cut must align perfectly across multiple curves and ridges.

Pine Molding

Pre-primed pine molding from Home Depot costs $1.50 to $3 per linear foot and comes in widths from 1-1/4 inches to 3-1/2 inches. The "S4S" (surfaced four sides) pine boards in the lumber aisle work as frame stock if you do not want a shaped profile. A 1x2 pine board at 8 feet costs $4 and yields enough stock for two 8x10 frames. Pine dents easily but takes paint well, making it the best choice for painted frames.

Hardwood Molding

Poplar, oak, and maple molding from a hardwood dealer or online supplier such as Frame Destination (framedestination.com) costs $3 to $8 per linear foot. Poplar ($3 to $4 per foot) is the standard hardwood for painted frames because its grain does not show through paint. Oak ($5 to $8 per foot) and maple ($4 to $6 per foot) are stained frames where the grain is part of the design. For a 16x20 frame with 1.5-inch-wide molding, you need approximately 7 linear feet of molding (two pieces at 20.5 inches and two pieces at 16.5 inches, plus 10 percent waste for cutting). At $4 per foot, the molding cost is $28. For smaller frames (8x10), the molding cost drops to $8 to $12.

Ready-Made Molding Profiles

Home Depot and Lowe's carry picture frame molding in the millwork aisle. Look for "picture frame moulding" (the store spells it moulding). Common profiles include the "Colonial" (a flat face with a small rounded outer edge, $2.50 per foot), the "Rope" (a twisted rope pattern, $3.50 per foot), and the "Modern" (a clean flat face with a beveled inner edge, $2 per foot). These come in 4-foot and 8-foot lengths. Buy 8-foot lengths to minimize waste; a single 8-foot piece yields enough for one 16x20 frame or two 8x10 frames.

The Tool List: Minimum Investment, Maximum Result

Three tools do the bulk of the work. The rest are hand tools you likely already own or can buy for under $5 each.

Miter Saw

A compound miter saw cuts the 45-degree angles at each frame corner. The DeWalt DWS715 12-inch single-bevel miter saw ($199) or the Ryobi 10-inch compound miter saw ($129) both cut accurately enough for picture frames. Set the saw to exactly 45 degrees and verify with a speed square before cutting. A deviation of 0.5 degrees creates a visible gap at the corner joint that no amount of glue or clamping can hide. If you do not own a miter saw, a miter box and backsaw ($15 at any hardware store) produces the same cuts with more patience and less speed.

Router with Rabbeting Bit

A hand-held router with a 3/8-inch rabbeting bit ($15 for a Freud or Bosch bit) cuts the recess in the back of the frame that holds the glass, mat, and artwork. Set the rabbet depth to 3/8 inch and the width to 1/4 inch. Run the router along the inside edge of each frame piece before assembling the joints. If you do not own a router, a table saw with a dado blade can cut the rabbet, or you can skip the rabbet entirely and use a store-bought frame kit that includes a precut rabbet.

Corner Clamp

A corner clamp ($15 to $25) holds two mitered pieces at exactly 90 degrees while the glue dries. The Pony 1-inch corner clamp ($18) or the IRWIN Quick-Grip corner clamp ($22) both work well. Without a corner clamp, the mitered pieces shift during clamping and the joint opens up. You need only one corner clamp; glue and clamp one corner at a time, wait 30 minutes, then move the clamp to the next corner.

Additional Tools

A tape measure, a sharp pencil, 120-grit and 220-grit sandpaper, a hand saw or coping saw ($10) for trimming ends, a nail set ($4) for driving finish nails below the surface, a flathead screwdriver for prying, and a clean rag for wiping glue squeeze-out. A glass cutter ($6) scores picture frame glass to size. A mat cutter ($30 to $200 depending on quality) cuts the mat board window. For a first frame, use a utility knife and a metal ruler to cut the mat; it is less precise than a mat cutter but adequate for learning.

Cutting Miter Joints That Close Perfectly

The miter joint is where two 45-degree cuts meet to form a 90-degree corner. A gap of 1/32 inch at a miter joint is visible at normal viewing distance. A gap of 1/16 inch is visible from across the room. The goal is a joint with no visible gap.

Setting Up the Saw

Set your miter saw to 45 degrees. Place a speed square against the saw fence and blade to verify the angle. Most miter saws have a detent at 45 degrees that is accurate to within 0.1 degrees, which is close enough. If your saw does not have a detent or the detent is inaccurate, adjust the bevel until the blade aligns perfectly with the 45-degree line on your speed square. Lock the bevel adjustment and do not change it during the project.

Cutting Technique

Mark the length on each piece with a pencil, measuring from the short point (the inside edge of the miter). Place the marked side against the saw fence with the pencil mark aligned with the blade. Hold the piece firmly against the fence with your left hand, at least 6 inches from the blade. Make the cut with a single smooth pull of the trigger. Do not stop mid-cut; pausing leaves a saw mark on the wood surface that shows through stain or clear finish.

Cut all four pieces and lay them on a flat surface in the frame configuration. Push the corners together by hand and check for gaps. If one corner has a gap, the miter angle is off. Adjust the saw by 0.25 degrees in the direction of the gap (if the gap is on the inside of the joint, decrease the angle slightly; if the gap is on the outside, increase it). Recut the affected pieces. It is common to recut one or two pieces on your first frame as you dial in the saw angle.

Sanding the Miter Faces

After cutting, sand the miter face lightly with 220-grit sandpaper on a flat sanding block. Sand with three to four strokes; do not round over the edge. The sanded face improves glue adhesion and removes the fuzzy fibers that the saw blade leaves on the cut surface. Blow or brush away the sawdust before applying glue.

Joining the Frame: Glue, V-Nails, and Clamping

Professional frame shops use a v-nailer, a specialized tool that drives V-shaped nails into the bottom of the miter joint from the back of the frame. V-nails pull the joint together mechanically and provide strength that glue alone cannot match. A manual v-nailer from Frame Destination costs $35 to $50. If you do not want to buy a v-nailer, use 1-inch finish nails driven by hand as a substitute.

Gluing the First Corner

Apply a thin, even layer of Titebond II wood glue to both miter faces of the first corner. Spread the glue with your finger or a small brush so it covers the entire surface without pooling. Too much glue squeezes out into the rabbet area and requires cleanup; too little glue produces a weak joint. Place the two pieces in the corner clamp and tighten until the joint closes completely. Wipe any glue squeeze-out immediately with a damp cloth; dried glue on the frame face shows through stain and clear finishes.

V-Nailing

While the corner is still in the clamp, drive two v-nails into the bottom edge of the joint using the v-nailer or a hammer. Position the first v-nail 1 inch from the outside edge and the second v-nail 1 inch from the inside edge. V-nails are tapered; they enter the joint at an angle and pull the two miter faces together as they seat. If you are using finish nails instead of v-nails, pre-drill 1/16-inch pilot holes and drive 1-inch finish nails through the bottom of the joint, angled toward the center. Set the nail heads below the surface with a nail set.

Completing the Remaining Corners

Wait 30 minutes for the glue to set on the first corner, then remove the clamp and repeat the process for the remaining three corners. After all four corners are glued and nailed, leave the frame undisturbed for 2 hours. Titebond II reaches handling strength in 30 minutes but full bond strength takes 24 hours. Do not sand, finish, or handle the frame roughly during this period.

Glazing: Cutting Glass, Mat Board, and Backing

The glazing package consists of four layers stacked inside the rabbet: glass, mat board, artwork, and backing board. Each layer must be cut precisely to the rabbet dimensions.

Cutting Glass

Buy 2mm picture frame glass from a hardware store or glass supplier. A 16x20-inch piece costs approximately $2. Score the glass with a glass cutter ($6) using a single firm stroke along a straightedge. Place the scored line on the edge of a table and press down sharply; the glass breaks cleanly along the score. Wear safety glasses and gloves. If the glass does not break on the first press, do not re-score; flip it over and press from the other side. Re-scoring creates a second line that causes jagged breaks.

Cutting the Mat Board

Buy acid-free mat board from an art supply store or online. Crescent Select mat board ($6 per 16x20 sheet) is the industry standard. Measure the window opening (the hole that reveals the artwork) and subtract 1/4 inch from each dimension so the mat overlaps the artwork by 1/8 inch on all sides. For a 16x20 artwork, the mat window measures 15.5x19.5 inches. Mark the window on the back of the mat board with a pencil and ruler. Cut along the lines with a utility knife using a fresh blade, scoring lightly on the first pass and cutting through on the second pass. Change the blade after every two cuts; a dull blade tears the mat board and leaves fuzzy white edges.

Backing Board

Use 1/8-inch foam core board ($4 per 20x30 sheet) or acid-free mat board as the backing. Cut it to the same dimensions as the glass. The backing board holds the artwork flat against the mat and provides a surface to attach the hanging hardware.

Assembly Order

Place the glass in the rabbet first, then the mat board, then the artwork, then the backing board. The entire stack should sit flush with or slightly below the back face of the frame. If the stack protrudes above the frame back, the rabbet is too shallow. Add a thin cardboard shim between the backing board and the frame to hold the stack tight, or use spring clips (bendable metal tabs that press the stack into the rabbet, $3 for a pack of 12).

Finishing the Frame: Stain, Paint, or Natural

Sand the assembled frame with 180-grit sandpaper, then 220-grit, working in the direction of the wood grain. Remove all sanding dust with a tack cloth ($3) before applying finish. Any dust left on the surface becomes embedded in the finish and appears as rough spots.

Staining

Apply Minwax Wood Finish in your chosen color with a foam brush or rag. For a medium brown tone, Minwax Provincial ($8 per pint) or Minwax Early American ($8 per pint) are reliable choices. Wipe on a liberal coat, let it sit for 5 minutes, and wipe off the excess with a clean rag. Let the stain dry for 4 to 6 hours. Apply a topcoat of Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane in Satin ($8 per pint) with a foam brush. Two coats of polyurethane, sanded with 320-grit between coats, provide a durable finish that resists scratches and moisture. Each coat dries in 2 to 4 hours.

Painting

Apply one coat of Kilz Premium primer ($12 per quart) with a Purdy 1.5-inch brush. Let the primer dry for 1 hour. Sand lightly with 220-grit sandpaper. Apply two coats of Benjamin Moore Advance paint in Semi-Gloss ($22 per pint) with the same brush. Advance is a water-based alkyd that levels smoothly and produces a hard, durable finish. Each coat dries in 4 to 6 hours. Sand lightly with 320-grit between coats.

Natural Finish

For an unfinished or natural-oil look, apply two coats of Howard Feed-N-Wax ($8 per can) or Minwax Wipe-On Poly in Satin ($14 per quart). Wipe-On Poly is applied with a rag and dries in 2 to 3 hours. It provides a thin, protective film that enhances the wood grain without adding color. Two coats give adequate protection for indoor use.

Attaching Hanging Hardware

Measure down 1/3 of the frame height from the top edge on both side pieces. Mark these points with a pencil. These are the D-ring positions. Screw a D-ring hanger ($4 for a pack of 4) at each mark using the included screws. Attach a length of braided picture wire ($5 for a 30-foot roll) to both D-rings, leaving enough slack that the wire forms a triangle peaking 2 inches below the top of the frame when pulled taut. Twist the wire ends around themselves three times and trim excess with wire cutters.

For frames larger than 20x24 inches, use two D-rings and wire the frame to hang from two hooks spaced 16 inches apart on the wall. This distributes the weight and prevents the frame from tilting. For frames under 11x14 inches, a single sawtooth hanger ($2 for a pack of 6) is sufficient.

The Bottom Line

Building your own picture frames costs $10 to $15 per frame in materials for common sizes (8x10 to 16x20) and $25 to $40 for large frames (20x24 to 24x36). The miter saw, router, and corner clamp represent a one-time investment of $160 to $275 if you do not already own them, but these tools serve dozens of other projects beyond framing. The technique that most separates amateur frames from professional ones is the accuracy of the 45-degree miter cut. Spend 10 minutes verifying your saw angle with a speed square before making any cuts, and the joints will close tightly without gaps. Once you have built two or three frames, the process takes 45 minutes to 1 hour per frame from measurement to hanging.